Archaeological and technical analysis of Byzantine textile fragments from the site of Zeytinli Bahçe

In the following thesis are presented the results of a multidisciplinary investigation into a collection of 26 textile fragments discovered in a mediaeval Christian cemetery at the site of Zeytinli Bahçe, in southeastern Turkey. The aim of this investigation was twofold: to characterize the structural parameters, material composition, and conservation status of these fragments; and further, to situate these artefacts within a broader archaeological, historical context. In pursuance of these aims, the author advanced a suite of analytic techniques: autoptic observation coupled with digital microphotography, for quantitative and qualitative analysis of the fragments; scanning electron microscopy (SEM), to obtain high-resolution imagery of the fragments’ surface morphology; energy-dispersive x-ray spectroscopy (EDS/EDX), to characterize the elemental composition of the surfaces of the fragments; and finally, radiocarbon dating, to approximate the age of the artefacts. Through the careful application of these techniques, it was determined that the textile fragments are balanced tabbies of variable thread count, composed of z-twisted cotton threads of variable diameter. It was further determined that the fragments are highly deteriorated, with evidence of long-term physical and chemical degradation –– including the presence of possible copper corrosion products. The present work represents the first comprehensive study of the textile fragments found in the mediaeval layers of Zeytinli Bahçe. It serves further as a demonstration of the value of a multidisciplinary approach –– integrating technical, archaeometric analyses and conventional archaeological methods –– for the study of archaeological textiles.